Sep. 30th
2009
written by scott

burger  I was thrilled to hear that a new burger place was opening its doors (and my mouth) in Ballard.  As a foodie, one of my favorite friendly debates is “Who makes the best burger in Seattle?”  Everyone has their preferences, from a $1.40 Dick’s cheeseburger to Spring Hill’s $17 1/2 lb. masterpiece, and all the meat sandwiches that fall between.  And although we may never agree on who flips the best beef, I’d like to add one more name into the conversation: The Counter.

I won’t go so far as to proclaim that The Counter makes the best burger in Seattle, but damned if they shouldn’t be on the ballot. 

Although I was dismayed to discover that The Counter is a chain (from California, no less!), I was very impressed with the Seattleishness of their menu and concept.  First, they start with 100% natural, hormone and antibiotic-free beef from Meyer Company Ranch.  This is exactly the right foundation for a burger joint: great beef.  It let’s you ask questions like, “Would you like your burger pink with a warm center?” instead of “Do you mind that we’re going to incinerate your dinner meat because we’re too cheap and/or careless to buy beef that’s safely edible?”  And, although being choosy about your cattle farm may still be ahead of its time, anyone can appreciate that quality beef just tastes better. 

menuThen, they give you topping options that would make Coldstones blush: 10 types of cheese (including Tillamook, yay!), 28 toppings (ex., fried egg, roasted chiles, chili, sun-dried tomatoes…), 18 sauces and even a choice of bun (or none).  The mix-and-match magic is up to you, though I can say with some confidence that it’d be tough to go wrong with any combination.  I choose a 1/3 lb. burger (after-cooking weight) with Tillamook cheddar, a fried egg, avocado, grilled onions and a caramelized onion marmalade on a honey wheat bun. 

I made the rookie mistake of cutting my burger in half, which caused my toppings to topple overboard.  But, what did my bisection reveal? The bright, beautiful pink center of my patty, as juicy and flavorful as can be.  Once recovered from the plate, the toppings were equally excellent.  The fattiness of the fried egg and avocado slices along with the sweetness of the onions sent signals told my mouth to tell my brain that life is a celebration, not to be wasted with bottled ketchup and inferior mustard.

one pound burgerIf you’ve brought a gigantic appetite (and testicles to match), The Counter sells a 1 lb. burger (after-cooking weight) that makes their normal burgers look like a kid’s meal.  In fact, this monstrous meat slab takes nearly 30 minutes to cook.  I’ll have to return for it another time, when my doctor isn’t looking.

The rest of the menu at The Counter is pretty solid: delicious fried dill pickle chips, tasty sweet potato fries, and a (seasonal) apple pie shake that made me want to cancel Thanksgiving.  And if sweet drinks aren’t your thing, they offer a surprisingly thorough wine and beer menu.  Best of all, it’s not hard to get out full for under $15/person.

Unfortunately, if you’re looking for an intimate Northwest atmosphere to accompany your natural beef burger and glass of malbec, The Counter isn’t it.  Built on the back side of the Trader Joe’s shopping center, the restaurants interior is sparse and sterile.  Having a Ballard address almost necessitates sarcastic, Emo kitsch on the walls, or at least dim lighting and exposed, reclaimed wood beams.  Instead you’ll find a tall room with no place to hide – only spacious rows of tables and the din of a cafeteria.  But, look on the bright side: you won’t have to wait an hour to be seated, you don’t have to know the secret handshake, and there’s even abundant free parking!

I wish The Counter the best of luck in Seattle.  I look forward to comparing notes with my fellow foodies, and returning to try out the next permutation of toppings and sauces.  They may not be the fanciest burger in town, nor are they the divey-est.  But if you value great beef, quick service and freedom of expression between the meat and the bun, go check ‘em out.

The Counter on Urbanspoon

Full disclosure: I got free stuff but that doesn’t pay for my opinion.

David Haybron | Clyde Cadiddlehopper

13 Comments

  1. 01/10/2009

    thanks for stoppin in! I’m glad you enjoyed everything :)

  2. Em
    03/10/2009

    Hi Scott,

    I just stumbled upon your blog today. I’m French, and though I’ve been in the US for about 12 years, I’ve just moved to Seattle this past month. I’m looking everywhere to find out where I can buy some different salts, spices, flavored oils… and I can’t figure it out. Would you be able to help me? Where can I find these treasures in this wonderful city? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

    And congratulations on your engagement in my home country! France will do that to you ;)

    Thanks!

    Emilie

  3. 05/10/2009

    Hi Emilie,

    There are a handfull of great shops in Seattle to find all the salts, spices and oils you need. Market Spice at Pike Place is a wonderful spice shop and a great place to buy loose tea. For salts, try Secret Stash Salts or SaltWorks. There’s a flavored oils shop along the main drag of Pike Place too, but DeLaurentis has a fantastic selection of olive oil.

    I hope this helps, and thanks to your home country for providing the romatic backdrop for my engagement :-)

    Regards,
    Scott

  4. 26/10/2009

    Hi Scott,

    How is your arm? Hopefully it’s on the mend.

    I swung by the Counter last night for a burger and bubbly. Though the blanc de blancs was too sweet for my taste and came in a can (with a mini straw), the customer service was excellent. Tasty burger, too.

    Thank you for recommending our salts to Emilie. That just made my day. :)

    Janna

  5. 28/10/2009

    uhhhh. The sauces sound so good. I’m gonna haul my cookies up there asap.

  6. 29/10/2009

    Yum! This place sounds terrific! We’ll have to go check them out, even though they are a chain. I’m won by the build-your-own concept. We love promoting the indie spots! Have you tried Flame on Queen Anne? We just discovered them a couple weeks ago, not too bad. :)

  7. 02/11/2009

    Hi Rosemary,

    I have tried Flame and I thought it was allright. I live in Queen Anne and I was very excited to see a burger place upen up on top of the hill. But, I was really hoping for something with a little more uniqueness and character (a la Red Mill, for example). Flame makes a decent burger, but I think there’s an untapped potential to have a really excellent burger place at the top of Queen Anne ave.

  8. 25/11/2009

    Hi. My co-worker and I was just discussing the best burger in Seattle and he told me his experience visiting The Counter yesterday. Apparently, he was right on the money, according to your review. It sounds like a great place. I’ll be heading that way soon and doing my own review as well. By the way, have you tried Skillet’s burger? Can’t beat that bacon jam.

    -NMOS

  9. 23/08/2010

    if you love burgers, you will love ours. we’re located in renton!

  10. michelle
    15/10/2010

    Hi,
    We went to The Counter after reading this blog. We actually really liked the decor. It has a certain style, we did not find it sterile. So, that being said, we were impressed with the staff, and the food presentation, it felt classy. The hamburgers were nice, but not great. We were surprised that they were cooked on a plaque, like at fast foods, and not charcoal broiled. Even though they tasted good and I would go back, we did not find the flavor we were looking for. Is there a restaurant in Seattle which charcoal broils the hamburgers ? In St Louis, Mo, we used to go to “The Fatted Calf”, which is still there, it seems, still remember that real charcoal flavor. So, yes, it is a neat place, the aioli mayonnaise is super, so are all the options, and by all means, try it !

  11. 12/10/2012

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