Jethro and I were asked to create a dish with “wow factor” for a group of scientists for an upcoming event. We wanted to craft a bite that’s first and foremost delicious, but also illustrates some of the hallmarks of modernist cooking: textural transformation, surprise, and use of unconventional techniques to refine and reinterpret something traditional. It also had to be practical and economical, since we’ll be serving nearly 200 people in two hours. This meant quick plating time, low portion cost, and minimal prep. After some brainstorming, we decided that a cryopoached (liquid nitrogen-frozen) puff would fit the bill. Jethro had already made the Fat Duck’s Cryopoached Green Tea Sour (which I recognized from Modernist Cuisine), but we wanted to make a version that was our own, and frankly, one that was simpler and cheaper.
I knew from prior experience that coconut milk foams nicely through a whipping siphon – I use it as a garnish for MC’s caramelized carrot soup. Jeth and I came up with a list of complimentary flavors, including licorice and lime. We combined coconut milk with a shot of absinthe, which made a delicious puff. However, the strong licorice flavor of absinthe turns a lot of folks off, so we decided it wouldn’t be a crowd pleaser. But coconut and lime? Who wouldn’t love that. And, for a little color and flavor contrast, we dusted the tops with ground, freeze-dried strawberries.
When cryopoached properly, the “meringue” has a crunchy exterior shell that gives way to a light, foamy interior. But, within a second of being in your mouth, the whole thing melts into liquid – the sensation all but forces a smile! We got the best textural results when we poached the meringues for 20 seconds, flipping once, then letting it rest 10 seconds before eating.
Makes: a lot
Total kitchen time: 20 minutes
Special equipment required: liquid nitrogen, whipping siphon
|
INGREDIENT |
QTY. |
SCALING |
PROCEDURE |
|
387g |
100% |
|
|
|
Sugar |
67g |
17% |
|
|
Vanilla extract |
2g |
0.5% |
|
|
Lime juice |
4g |
1% |
|
|
2g |
0.5% |
||
|
|
|
|
|
|
Freeze dried strawberry, powdered |
as needed |
5. Dust over the frozen meringues and serve immediately. |
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Also, an important safety note: DON’T LICK THE SPOON! Any metal or dense materials that come in contact with the liquid nitrogen will get cold and stay cold – cold enough to burn your skin and freeze your tongue like a flagpole in a snowstorm. As a gentleman and a friend, I’m choosing not to post the picture of Jethro’s “lesson” in thermodynamics, but let’s just say that the spoon now has more taste buds than he does.
*Thanks to Mr. Eric Rivera for the carrageenan tip!
